I’ve been thinking a lot recently about the conversations happening within skincare. Particularly around waterless formulations being the better choice and the growing idea that water itself is somehow the problem, both for the skin and for the environment.
But things are rarely that black and white.
At Anara, our botanical, sustainable range consciously includes both water-based and waterless formulations. That was never a marketing decision. It was a formulation one.
And perhaps that is why I feel able to look at this conversation from a more balanced perspective. Because I have never needed one system to “win” over the other.
So let’s look at it at a deeper level.
Different products require different architectures depending on what you are trying to achieve for the skin, the texture, the sensorial experience and the overall performance of the formula.
The formulation path chosen can also come down to the preferences and philosophy of the formulator.
Waterless products by their nature can simplify certain aspects of stability and preservation, while emulsions often require a far more delicate balance between texture, efficacy, safety and skin feel ~ particularly when working with high levels of botanical ingredients.
And here is where the discussion on sustainability becomes more interesting too.
Firstly I think it is important to remember that “waterless” refers to the formulation itself, not necessarily the entire production process behind it.
Ingredient cultivation, manufacturing, cleaning systems and supply chains still require resources, including water.
For me, sustainability in beauty is about far more than whether a formulation contains water.
It is about responsible sourcing, packaging, longevity and consumption and also the choice of ingredients.
It is about whether a product genuinely earns its place in someone’s routine long term, rather than becoming another half-used bottle sitting at the back of a bathroom cabinet.
Water in skincare has increasingly been reduced to the idea that it exists simply to “bulk out” a product. And it’s true that water can make up a significant proportion of a formula, which is why concentration of actives is a genuine consideration in formulation.
But in many formulations water plays an important and vital role in hydration, texture and how ingredients are delivered and work with the skin ~ and certain key actives simply cannot function without it.
Equally, waterless formulations can serve an important purpose too. Some feel richer, more protective and more nourishing, creating comfort and support at the skin’s surface.
For me, it has always been about creating the right formulation for the right purpose. And I believe that the two should work hand in hand to create a well-rounded skincare ritual.
Every Anara formulation, whether water-based or waterless, was created with nourishment, barrier support and long-term skin health at its heart.
Our water-based formulations are over 99% natural-origin and plant-derived and were created specifically with sensitive skin and cumulative exposure in mind, including during pregnancy.
Yes, water-based formulations require a preservation system for safety. But not all preservatives are inherently harsh or problematic. They can also be gentle, pregnancy-friendly and safe in cumulative use when chosen carefully and consciously.
And safety matters when it comes to products you apply to your skin and keep in your home over time.
In my four years developing Anara, working alongside doctors and scientists with over 150 years of combined experience in natural skincare formulation and sustainability, all of these topics were, and still remain, at the centre of everything we do.
My aim was always to take a more thoughtful and balanced approach to formulation than many of the increasingly polarised conversations we now see.
The assumption that natural automatically means better or even safer, when in reality neither is always true.
Or that choosing botanical, natural-origin skincare means accepting products that feel heavy, overly greasy or disconnected from modern life.
The reality is that many women, myself included, want more.
So we developed this more rounded view into the Anara range.
Thoughtful natural-origin ingredients and elegant textures. Long-term skin health and formulations that sit beautifully beneath make-up, if and when they choose to wear it.
Choosing different formulation systems for different purposes to maximise the skin benefits.
Regardless of whether the formulation contains water or not, choosing sustainability in everything we do.
Sustainable ingredient sourcing and practices, formulations that are 99-100% natural origin and always sensitive-skin and pregnancy-friendly.
Independent certification from The Vegan Society and Cruelty Free International matters to us because it requires full ingredient transparency and independent verification - accountability that goes beyond marketing claims, whichever formulation system a brand chooses.
Choosing to create a smaller collection of multi-use products designed for the eyes, face and neck. Created to simplify routines rather than encourage endless extra steps and unnecessary consumption.
Made with one intention ~ to look after your skin and to evolve with you through real life rather than follow trends.
Interestingly, some of the most balanced conversations I’ve had around this topic haven’t been with people in the beauty industry at all.
They’ve been with intelligent people I meet in everyday life, some of whom happen to be Anara customers. People who care deeply about wellbeing, sustainability and the products they use, but who are not immersed in skincare discourse every day.
And almost all of them approach the conversation with far more curiosity and nuance than media often allows.
Perhaps that is because most people instinctively understand that skincare and sustainability are rarely about extremes.
It is about intention.
Thoughtful ingredients. Thoughtful formulation. Thoughtful consumption.
